熊野古道3日目①大門坂 Kumano Kodo Day 3 (1): Daimonzaka

旅Trip

最も熊野古道らしいとも言われる大門坂。那智大社、那智の滝へと続く参詣道です。

Daimonzaka is often said to be one of the most quintessential sections of the Kumano Kodo.
It is the pilgrimage route leading to Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls.

6:45 紀伊勝浦駅前発のバスに乗り、那智山へ向かいます。人が多い時間帯は座れないこともあるそうですが、この時間はまだ余裕がありました。
7:10 大門坂に到着。

At 6:45 a.m., I took a bus from Kii-Katsuura Station toward Nachi.I had heard that buses can be crowded later in the day, but at this early hour there were plenty of seats.
At 7:10 a.m., I arrived at Daimonzaka.

最初に渡るのが、振ヶ瀬橋(ふりがせばし)。俗世と聖域の境目とされている場所です。

The first place you cross is Furigase Bridge.
It is said to mark the boundary between the secular world and the sacred.

南方熊楠が滞在していた旅館。熊楠はロンドンから帰国後、故郷の人々に理解されないなど不遇な環境の中で、那智の地に身を置き、植物採集や研究に没頭する日々を送っていたといわれています。その中で那智の山々を歩き、数々の発見を重ね、後年の研究の礎を築きました。またこの地で、幽体離脱を体験したり、幽霊に出会ったと語ったとも伝えられています。

Nearby stands an inn where Minakata Kumagusu once stayed.After returning from London, Kumagusu lived in this area under difficult circumstances, not always understood by people in his hometown. During this time, he devoted himself to research and botanical collection in the mountains of Nachi.Through his work in these mountains, he made numerous discoveries that later became the foundation of his research.It is also said that while in Nachi, he experienced out-of-body experience and even encountered spirits.

大門坂の入口。夫婦杉の間を通り、石段を上っていきます。

At the entrance to Daimonzaka, you pass between the “Meoto Sugi,” a pair of sacred cedar trees, and begin climbing the stone steps.

九十九王子の最後にあたる多富気(たふけ)王子。

Along the way is Tafuke-oji, the final of the “Kumano Kodo Oji” shrines.

樹齢800年といわれる大楠。

There is also a great camphor tree said to be around 800 years old.

大門坂は、凛としていながらも包み込むような空気が印象的で、言葉で説明するのは難しい場所です。写真で少しでもその空気が伝わればうれしいです。石段は長いですが、清々しい空気の中を歩いていると、疲れはあまり感じませんでした。

Daimonzaka leaves a strong impression with its quiet dignity and at the same time a sense of gentle embrace.It is difficult to put that atmosphere into words, and I hope the photographs can convey at least a part of it.The stone steps continue for quite a distance, but walking through the clear, refreshing air, I hardly felt tired at all.

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